San Sebastián & Txakoli: Pintxos by the Sea

The Old Town is a grid of narrow pedestrian streets packed with hundreds of bars. The golden rule: do not treat a pintxos bar like a buffet. While the cold pintxos are displayed on the counter, the best food is almost always written on the chalkboard behind the bar and cooked to order (pintxos calientes). Order one hot dish, one glass of Txakoli, eat standing up, and move to the next bar. Here is exactly where to go, and exactly what to order.

Where to Eat & Drink Well

1. Bar Txepetxa

   Calle Pescadería 5, San Sebastián

   Do not be fooled by the slightly retro interior. Txepetxa is a San Sebastián institution dedicated almost entirely to one ingredient: the anchovy (anchoa). They cure their own and serve them on small pieces of toast with extraordinary toppings — from spider-crab cream to blueberry compote. It sounds unusual, but it is phenomenal.

   Nicole's Tip: Order a flight of two or three different anchovy toppings and a glass of Txakoli — it's the most characterful way to start the evening.

2. Ganbara

   Calle San Jerónimo 21, San Sebastián

   A favourite haunt of the legendary local Michelin-starred chefs. The bar is famously piled high with wild, seasonal mushrooms. You must order the griddled wild mushrooms (setas) topped with a raw, silken egg yolk. It is rich, earthy, and unforgettable.

3. La Cuchara de San Telmo

   Calle del 31 de Agosto 28, San Sebastián

   There are no cold pintxos sitting on the bar here — everything is cooked to order, focusing on miniature versions of slow-cooked Basque cuisine. It gets incredibly crowded, so push to the front and order the slow-roasted veal cheek or the crispy suckling pig.

4. Bar Néstor

   Calle Pescadería 11, San Sebastián

   There are essentially only three things on the menu here: tomatoes, Padrón peppers, and txuleta (a massive, bone-in ribeye steak from older cows). You stand at the bar, they present you with raw cuts of beef to choose from, and they grill it perfectly.

   Nicole's Tip: The txuleta and the famous tortilla are strictly limited each day — put your name down for them the moment you arrive, then go for a wander and come back.

5. La Viña

   Calle del 31 de Agosto 3, San Sebastián

   You end your night here. La Viña is the birthplace of the world-famous Basque burnt cheesecake, baked at a high temperature so the outside caramelises and burns slightly while the centre stays incredibly soft and oozy. Order a slice and a glass of Pedro Ximénez sherry.

San Sebastián is surrounded by restaurants that have redefined global gastronomy. If you are going to splurge on one solo fine-dining experience in your life, do it here. Both of these welcome solo diners warmly — the staff are used to it, and a counter or window seat for one is a quietly wonderful way to experience a tasting menu.

Where to Eat & Drink Well

1. Arzak

   Avenida Alcalde J. Elosegi 273, San Sebastián

   Arzak is not just a restaurant; it is a Basque institution. Holding three Michelin stars since 1989, it is run by Elena Arzak, the fourth generation of her family to cook in this building. The tasting menu is a masterclass in modern Basque cuisine — playful, deeply rooted in local ingredients, and served with incredibly warm, unpretentious hospitality.

2. Mugaritz

   Aldura Gunea Aldea 20, Errenteria

   Located about 20 minutes outside the city, Mugaritz (two Michelin stars) is frequently listed among the best restaurants in the world. Chef Andoni Luis Aduriz does not just serve food; he serves concepts. The 20-course tasting menu is provocative, challenging, and deeply intellectual — an assault on the senses in the best possible way.

   Nicole's Tip: Mugaritz closes for several months each year to research the new menu. Check the season before you plan your trip around it.

You need to walk off the pintxos, and San Sebastián has two of the most beautiful urban beaches in Europe. Between bars and tasting menus, the coast is where the city slows down and shows off.

What to Do

1. La Concha Beach

   The iconic, crescent-shaped bay that defines the city. The water is calm, the sand is soft, and the promenade is lined with elegant Belle Époque white wrought-iron railings. Walking the length of La Concha at sunset is a mandatory San Sebastián ritual.

2. The Gros Neighbourhood

   Just across the river from the Old Town, Gros is the surfing hub of the city. Its beach, Zurriola, catches the Atlantic swell. The neighbourhood is younger, more relaxed, and has its own brilliant, slightly less crowded pintxos scene — the perfect place to escape the Parte Vieja crush.

Where to Eat & Drink Well

1. Hotel de Londres y de Inglaterra

   Zubieta 2, San Sebastián

   A magnificent, 150-year-old luxury hotel sitting directly on the promenade of La Concha bay. The Belle Époque architecture is stunning, and the sea views from the front rooms are breathtaking. It is classic, safe, and perfectly positioned for a solo traveller.